After all the seam welding was completed on the interior of the car I figured I would add some sound deadning material. Since dynamat is expensive I bought some Peel and Seal from Lowes. At $70 per 50 sq/ft it is economical and it is really nice not having to mail order anything. The Peel and Seal comes in 25' x 6" rolls and has a foil face with a sticky rubberized asphalt backing. Some people will argue that dynamat (or another of the 20 different products out there) is worth the extra price. The two main arguments would be that Peel and Seal stinks for a while after you install it (I'll find out soon enough) and that "XYZ" sound deadener is thicker/heavier so it is better. Personally, I don't really care about either of those issues. It will be MONTHS before I start driving this car and I am sure any smell will be long gone. Also, I am not looking for the BEST noise dampning, I'm just looking for SOME noise dampning. I could put eight layers of dynamat inside and under the car for better noise dampning but that is not what I am trying to do. I'm sure this will be good enough for me.

I will also be installing Reflectix (also found at Lowes) over the Peel and Seal as an additional sound and heat barrier. Reflectix is like bubble wrap with a foil layer on each side. You've probably seen windshield sun protectors made out of it.

Oh, as far as the smell. I haven't smelled anything yet. I'll have to call shenanigans on anyone who has ever said this stuff stinks.

The interior of the car is pretty nasty and still has the factory jute sound deadening all over:

I scraped all the old stuff off, hosed out the car and gave it a good washing with some $1 Store dishwashing liquid with bleach. After I washed it the first time I gave it another washing for the heck of it:

Everyone always wants to know how much Peel and Seal they need and how long it takes to install it. The first place I put the Peel and Seal (I'm going to call it "mat" from now on) was on the floorboard, behind the seats, and the tranny tunnel. This picture shows what two rolls will give you (maybe 90% coverage):

Installing those two rolls took two hours. My calculator tells me that means one roll will cover one side in one hour (with two rolls costing $35 and totalling 25 sq/ft). The first two rolls were the easiest. Everything gets MUCH harder from now on. My method of installing it so far as been to cut the strip to length with a box cutter, mark any bolt holes with a Sharpie, peel the backing and lay it on. Once it is on I push it down with my fingers, then with the round end of a screw driver handle, then rub an old tennis ball over it. This seems like it is working fine so far:

A week later I moved on to phase #2 - the doors. More specifically, the inside of the outer door shell and the outside of the inner door:

I went back to Lowes to get some more mat. I found two rolls that had the outer paper ripped up on them a bit. I bugged the cashier until she gave me 10% off each roll (yes, I begged for $3 ):

I trimmed away the vapor barrier leaving some to cover the nasty black goop Mazda uses to hold it to the door. DO NOT get this stuff on your hands. It is sticky and makes a mess. If you do get it on you use some WD-40 to remove it. Once I had access to the interior of the door I used WD-40 to clean a bunch of old stuff that looked like wheel bearing grease stuck to the inside of the doors. After the grease was gone I used Windex to clean up the WD-40. Be sure to get all the slippery stuff out or your mat will not stick. I probably should have rolled the car outside to clean it with my Dollar Store cleaner but it was 3:00AM and I didn't want the neighbors to get upset.

I am normally a perfectionist but as I said, I don't want to do this stuff perfectly. Keeping that in mind I just put one strip above the crash bar and one strip below the crash bar. I also cut a strip in half giving me 3" sections and did the bottom (the horizontal section) of the door. Be sure not to cover up the drain holes that are in the bottoms of the door.

After the inside of the outer door shell was done I moved on to the outside of the inner door. I used blue painters tape to cover up any holes that would be used by the door panel clips. I didn't want to goof up and cover up a hole that I would need later:

I stopped at around 80% complete because I wasn't really sure how the electric window regulator was going to be mounted. My donor car has manual windows but I am going to swap in power windows and power mirrors:

As I was cutting the mat to size I kept the backing (stuff you pull off to reveal the sticky side) as a pattern to use for the other door:

After "completing" the driver side door I had a little bit of mat left over. I went back and partially covered the crash protection bar. I can tell by rapping on it that it is needed. I'll do the rest of it and the bar on the passenger side later on. For the record, I now have three rolls of mat in the car (one roll did both doors to around 80%). I could probably stop here and call the doors complete but I will go back and add just a bit more when I work on the power windows.

I wanted to do some sound deadening behind the seats as well. There is a lot of noise that comes in through the package shelf. I pulled it off and used a wire welding brush to scrape away the old jute:

I put some mat on the shelf. Again, total coverage is not necessary:

I made sure I did the fuel tank covers as well:

Once the shelf and covers were installed I put some more mat on the places that were integral to the body:

Once the sound deadening was completed I started on the heat shielding. I used a roll of Reflectix from Lowes. It is aluminized bubble wrap and does a good job of keeping heat out:

Not much to show here. I put it on one side at a time with a strip in the middle. I made sure I overlapped the pieces and held everything together with duct tape. I was going to move on to doing the trunk next but unfortunately I sold the car a week later: