With an upcoming trip to Dallas, TX for the 20th Anniversary celebration of the Mazda Miata we decided that we needed to install an aftermarket cruise control on the MSM. After all, 12 days of driving was going to be hard enough so we might as do everything we can to make it a little easier. I did some research and found that people were installing the Audiovox CCS-100 aftermarket cruise control kit. It was a vacuum driven RPM based cruise control. I only paid $97 shipped from www.brandsplace.com.

I wanted to make the install look factory so I ordered an OEM Cruise Control stalk from Montgomery Mazda . Just click on that site and search for part number NC1166128 - it is about $60:

When you get your CCS-100 the first thing you do is set the dip switches on the back of the servo (#1,2,4 = ON and #3,5,6,7 = OFF). After setting the dip switches you plug in the wiring harness and attach the cover:

Next remove the 3 screws that hold the mounting bracket on and "reverse" the bracket so it sticks out on the other side. Now attach the vacuum hose and install it on the driver's side of the engine bay. There is an existing threaded hole you can use. I used one of the bolts included with the kit as well as a lock washer I had laying around. The ground (shortest black wire on the harness) can be attached to the mounting bracket using the same bolt. I used a ty-wrap to take some of the slack out of the ground wire but you could probably cut it shorter and put a new crimp connector on it instead:

Snake the vacuum hose around the back of the engine (I ran it along all the hard lines attached to the firewall). Cut the vacuum hose downstream of the white/green checkvalve behind the intake manifold on the passenger side of the engine:

Find the main wiring harness that goes though the grommet on the drivers side. I cut a hole using an exacto knife in the grommet and stuck about 4" of 3/8" fuel hose through the hole. I've never installed wires like this so I don't know how it will turn out. I figure that this may be a nice way to run future wires and I might throw a little goop on there to keep water out. Who knows, it is just an experiment at this point:

You can see under the dash where the hose comes through the firewall:

Run the Red, Green, Purple, Yellow, and Brown wires through the hose in the firewall. I took some wireloom and wrapped it around the wires and the hose to give it a finished look. Note that there are two wires (Grey and Black) that are not needed or used. Just cut them off or hide them:

The CCS-100 comes with three different ends to hook to the cable that attaches to your throttle plate cam. Everyone says not to use the ones with a loop of wire on them (they say they eventually break) but it was such a good fit that I decided to use the longest one anyway. To help with any potential breakage I grabbed an old wire crimp that I had laying around and put it over the small crimp that already exists. This may make the loop stronger. You can see a crimp at the top and the longer loop fitting in the middle (with the aluminum crimp I added):

This is where you install the wire loop:

To install the loop cable just rotate the throttle plate cam clockwise to give the accelerator cable some slack and slide the barrel connector out a bit. Then just slip the loop over the end of it and put the barrel connector back in:

The cable clamp has two different sizes on it. Mine was marked with "SERVO" and "CARB". Make sure the "CARB" side is holding the factory acellerator cable. I used the supplied bolts as well as some spare lock washers I had to put the cable clamp together I put the nut on there (it was ran all the way down the threads) to prevent the cable from sliding forward. You can see here than I used one of the supplied connectors to join the cruise control cable and the loop cable end:

I didn't take any pictures of this (I'll get some in a few days) but you need to attach the Blue wire from the harness to the Green/Yellow wire inside the diagnostic connector. I used butt connectors to crimp the blue wire and Green/Yellow wire together:

Everything is finished under the hood so now it is time to get under the dash and start running wires. I used "vampire" splices to hook the Purple wire to the Green wire on the brake switch. I also connected the Red wire to the White/Green wire on the brake switch:

The wiring harness that comes with the cruise control must be "assembled". Just follow the color coding on the male female connectors and insert the metal ends of the wires into the connectors:

There is a 15 AMP fuse (diagonal from the big 30 AMP fuse) for "METER". This fuse will have power while the car is running. I unscrewed the two screws holding the fuse holder under the dash and found the yellow/black wire going to this fuse. I used a vampire connector to hook the orange (it is red at the cruise connector talked about in the previous step but turns orange after the supplied wire harness fuse) wire to the yellow/black wire behind the car's fuse block. I also hooked the black wire on the cruise harness to the metal bracket very close to the fuse block that holds the lower dash onto the body. This probably isn't the best place but I will revisit it at some future time.

After a quick test to make sure the cruise was working I started working on getting the OEM Cruise Control stalk installed. The CC stalk comes with a circuit board connected to it via three wires. Cut these wires off as close to the control board as you can. You want to have as much stalk wire to work with as you can get. Note that you now have Red/Blue, Green/Blue and Yellow wires.

I used a 1/4" ratchet and a #2 phillips head stud to remove the extremely hard to get to screws holding on the old "non-cruise" wiper stalk. Actually, the stalk is sandwiched between the control board and some plastic parts:

Once the screws are removed you can push the control board forward and pull the wiper stalk out. Make sure you pull it towards you at an angle:

There is a white "button" and a spring that needs to be removed from the old wiper stalk and used in your new cruise stalk. I used a spring hook to remove the spring but a small screw or metal rod would work as well:

Here you can better see the screws that you remove:

Note that there is a "hook" that goes towards the rear of the car. This is why you remove the old stalk at an angle!

There was some sort of light grease on the wiper stalk. I just took some Vasoline and put some on the new stalk:

I put some butt crimps on the ends of the wires coming off the new stalk:

Cut the control box off close to the wiring harness connector. This will give you plenty of wire left on the control box if you want to mount it somewhere:

After cutting off the control box you need to strip the ends of where you just cut and twist them back together. The reason we are doing this is so that I can tee back into the butt connectors I just put on the new stalk wires. Make sure you twist the Red and Brown wires from the control box harness together. The Red and Brown wires will both be crimped to the Red/Blue wire for the new stalk. The Green wire from the control box will connect to the Green/Blue wire on the stalk and the Yellow wire on the control box will be connected to the Yellow wire for the stalk:

I had a ton of wires left but didn't feel like cutting them shorter. I just ty-wrapped everything together in a bundle and stuffed them under the steering wheel. I don't know if this will rattle/rub and make noise but if it does I will go back in and fix the problem. Note that there is a grey wire in there that is not needed:

There is a screw/bolt hole forward of the ignition switch:

Ty-wrap your new stalk wires to this bolt hole so they don't try to pull out of the new stalk for some reason. That's it - time to go for a drive!: