My 1st Generation Kel-Tec P-32 pistol came with the dark blue grip. I like a black gun better (who doesn't) and since I had owned the gun for a whole 30 minutes and hadn't torn it apart yet I decided that now would be a great time to dye the grip, do a fluff and buff on the gun, and get some good lubrication on it.
This is what the gun looked like before I started. The gun had a belt clip on it when purchased that I'm taking that off. I've also added a Crimson Trace laser sight and a rubber handle grip. I did not know that the dark blue P32 was somewhat of a rarity until I had the gun apart and the dye job was completed. Now I have a ton of people telling me that I should have just bought a new black grip for the gun and sold the blue grip at a nice profit. Oh well, I had fun doing the dye job on it.:
The first thing to do is take off the laser sight, the rubber grip, and the belt clip:
The slide comes off fairly easily after you remove the frame pin. You must use an empty magazine to lock the slide back to do this:
The slide is now apart and you can see the recoil spring catch, the recoil springs (there is one inside the other with the guide inside that), and the barrel. I'll shine up the barrel a bit now but eventually I will shine and buff the barrel and slide to a mirror finish:
The firing pin and spring are out. There was some pitting on the firing pin but I smoothed it out as best as I could with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. I will be replacing it soon:
The frame was fairly hard to pull out because the frame pins just didn't want to budge. I tapped on them with a hammer and a small punch and all that did was put a small punch sized hole in them. A larger punch was used next and that did the trick. The gun was absolutely filthy inside and some of the parts were sticking. It almost seemed like it was full of old sticky maple syrup. I think it was a HUGE mistake to pull out the hammer block and spring (held in by the rearward frame pin). I think that I could have probably pulled the frame out without removing the hammer block but I won't know until I go back in there again. Putting the hammer block, spring, and frame pin back in the gun added about an hour to the process:
The sticky maple syrup "lubrication" was causing a problem when I first got the gun. The gun would make a click that you could hear and feel when you first started to squeeze the trigger. I found the problem was a heavy build up of sticky grease between the trigger bar and the frame. Even though the trigger spring was working correctly the buildup was not allowing the rear of the trigger bar to move all the way up. When slight pressure was put on the trigger the trigger bar would snap upward and hit the frame.
My wife would not allow me to dye my gun in the kitchen (I'm not exactly sure why ) so I mixed up the RIT black dye in a metal can and an old electric skillet in the garage. I used one box of dye, a 1/3 gallon of water in the can and an inch of water in the skillet. I turned the heat on all the way until the water/dye started to simmer:
After 30 minutes of soaking the grip was pulled out and rinsed off:
After doing the fluff and buff I wanted to make sure all my parts were well lubricated. I had heard that Militec-1 was the best lubrication out there but I have since learned that may not be the case. In any event, I applied Militec-1 to all the metal surfaces and heated them up in the electric skillet. I let them cool a bit and treated them again two more times. The aluminum frame was coated with Militec-1 and heated with a heat gun instead of putting it in the electric skillet:
Here's what she looks like after the dye job. The gun no longer looks like a toy to me. It did lose a little of its character but I think it looks great:
Just for reference, here is how the P32 matches up with my Walther P22:
I have a friend who just purchased an Ivory gripped 1st Gen P32. This is what it looks like beside mine:
This gun was definitely well worn. Here you can see the wear on the Recoil Spring Guide:
The barrel is also worn out (this part should be straight, not curved). I'll email Kel-Tec and see if they will replace these parts for us. The guns come with a lifetime warrantee and these guys (Kel-Tec) and top notch when it comes to standing behind their guns: