Video of Obrez at the range:



A few years ago I bought my first Mosin Nagant 91/30. I really liked shooting the rifle and after the Sandy Hook shooting the price of ammo increased to the point where shooting anything else became too expensive. Well, one thing lead to another and my joy of shooting the Mosin become an obsession:



My first Mosin was cleaned up and refinished and that quickly became my favorite. I know the picture is missing, I need to take a nice one and put it here. You can see the rifle at the end of the page sitting beside the finished Obrez:



Fast forward a couple of years later and I was really yearning to buy a new firearm. I couldn't figure out what to get but the prime candidates were an AK-47 with synthetic stock (to replace the one I sold), an RPK (to replace the two I sold), or a VEPR chambered in 7.62x54R (the same round a Mosin shoots). I couldn't make a decision on which to get but one day I was browsing YouTube and saw a video of a guy shooting his Obrez (sawed-off Mosin). I knew that what I was yearning for was not to buy another weapon but to BUILD another weapon. I pulled three Mosins out of my collection to see which one I was going to modify:



I have a fondness for Mosins that have factory repairs done to them. I imagine the rifle being used to bash a Nazi skull open during the heat of battle. One of the three had repairs (you can see the light colored patch) so I stayed away from it:



I've always liked the look of the dog collar eyelets (at least that is what I am going to call them until I find their real name) that are held on with screws. One of the three had those so it was the one I picked:



I see that the rifle I picked had shims installed at the factory to help accurize the rifle. I'm not expecting my new rifle to be a tack driver but maybe this is a good indication that it was an OK shooter:



The first step was to dismantle the rifle and clean the cosmoline off it. You can see how much greasy mess is on the barrel:



I used mineral spirits and a paint brush to clean the metal parts:



That's much better:



I used an old radio antenna to measure the factory barrel length. It was 28.75":



After getting that dimension I marked 16.5" (16.0" is the minimum legal length for a rifled barrel) on the rod:



The rod gives me an idea of where my cut will be:



I started removing the hardware from the stock. People always think these eyelets are brass but they are really just steel with shellac sprayed over them:



The front barrel band spring will have to be removed and placed on the modified stock:



These things are kind of brittle so I cut the stock so the pin on the barrel band spring was exposed. Yes, I see that my stock had a factory repair on it as well. I was in full "modification" mode at this point and there was no looking back:



I used two wood blocks with notches cut in them to secure the barrel in a vice:



Once secured, I used a hack saw to cut the barrel to length. I then used a fine file and sandpaper to smooth the surface. I ended up with a few small scratches but no one but me will ever know they are there (and I will eventually forget about them). The original plans were to do all the barrel work in my lathe but the barrel was too short to put in the back and stick through the lathe chuck so I had to do it the caveman way:



Looks like I did a good job of hitting my 16.5" target:



I put the barrel back in the stock so I could get an idea of the overall length:



Once I saw the maximum length of the stock, I cut it so it would be easier to work with:



I needed to remove the recoil bolt and nut:



I used two nails and a pair of pliers to remove them:



The nails and pliers seemed like a good idea until I remembered I had a set of snap ring pliers which is the correct tool to use:



Next I needed to get rid of the nasty Russian shellac that was all over the stock. I used paint stripper to remove the majority of it :



A quick check to see how it looked so far:



The eyelets and barrel band spring each needed to have a recess cut into the stock. I marked the location with a pencil:



I used a dremel with a milling type bit to carve into the stock:



This took me quite a long time but the fitment is not too bad:



The hardest part of the project was cutting the recesses. The barrel band spring location was really hard to find and cut correctly:



I moved back to the barrel. After polishing the muzzle I wanted to do a little crown work. I stuffed some paper towel down the barrel:



I had read that a brass screw could be used to cut a new crown if the proper tools weren't available. Since the proper tools cost more than the rifle did I figured I would try the screw first:



I used some old valve lapping compound as an abrasive:



The chamfer I put in the muzzle came out pretty nice. It wouldn't show up in a closeup picture but to get it I chucked the screw in my drill and ran it on high speed for about 2-3 minutes to cut the ID of the muzzle. If the rifle shoots horribly I will work on it again. If it is still bad then I will spring for the correct tools:



I had big plans for putting a new dovetail in the barrel to hold the front sight but in the end I took a huge shortcut and bought a Brass Stacker sight adapter. They have several different sizes depending on how short you cut the barrel (which changes the OD). I was a little unsure of what size to get but their tech support told me size "E" was the one I needed. They were right:



I also purchased a UTG Dragon Claw bipod:



A test fit of the bipod and brass stacker:



Looks like there is a little more cosmoline to remove before I am ready for the stain. Yes, there are a few garden hoses in the back yard (over 400 feet). That is for an upcoming project that will remain secret for a while:



I sprayed the stock down with Awesome from Dollar Tree several times over the course of an hour to get rid of the remaining cosmoline:



Hanging up and waiting:



I spent a lot of time testing various stains on the parts of the original stock that I cut off. I settled on Bombay Mahogany Satin:



The first coat is on and drying. I would end up only putting three coats on over the course of three days. The stock looked good to me and I was worried about messing it up with additional coats. I didn't exactly follow the directions on the can. I used a papertowel to apply the stain in a very thin coat:



As with my favorite laminate Mosin, I purchased an AIM buttpad. This is so much better than the stock steel butt pad (if you can call a steel plate a "pad"). Not only does it give some much needed cusion but it gives the gun an extra 2" length of pull. The Russians kept the length of pull short since they were normally wearing heavy winter coats when armed with the weapon:



Wow, finally done! The whole project took a little over two weeks to complete. How does it shoot? I'm going to the range tomorrow for testing and to shoot some video. I'm sure the sights are going to be WAY off but eventually I will get them right. I could not get the front barrel band on due to the small size. I'll have to do some work on it but for now I have a black ty-wrap on it. I'm also going to do some glass bedding and trigger work to the rifle in the near future (I'll post results and pictures of that as well):



Side by side comparison of my GoTo Mosin and the Obrez:



Yep, it is a little shorter!:



A few months later I got it in my head that I needed to build a sniper Mosin (or rather a Scout Mosin). The key would be to remove the rear sight and replace it with a scope. The dirt little secret on a Mosin is that if you remove the rear sight you will find a dovetail mount. This is what it looks like "stock":



And this is what it looks like after you remove the rear sight (more than likely a VERY difficult process):



After removing the rear sight I shortened the barrel to 16.25" and refinished the stock. This time I removed the old stain and simply coated the rifle with Boiled Linseed Oil. I think it came out looking very nicely:



Another angle. Note - The scope is a 2-7x32:



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Note - You are probably seeing missing links to some pictures above. I still use Notepad to create the html code and have a template with plenty of extra references to pictures to save on typing. As I continue the page I will add pictures and descriptions and these missing links will disappear.