Three days after fixing the distributor shaft oil leak I noticed that my normal one small drip of oil on the garage floor had been replaced by a huge puddle of oil. I must have angered the car:

Popping the hood showed that the engine was covered in oil. I was pretty sure that the leak was coming from either the cam seal or the crank seal but the only way to diagnose the problem was to remove the timing belt cover, clean up the oil, then drive the car until it started leaking again. The first step was to loosen the AC belt tensioner and remove the AC belt. It takes a 14MM wrench (or was it 15MM ?), loosen the bolt inside the pulley and then "tighten" (which shortens it) the adjustment bolt. Of course, I didn't loosen the pulley bolt first and snapped the adjustment bolt in half:

Since I broke the bolt I removed the pulley so I could find a replacement bolt:

Next you loosen two 12MM bolts on the alternator. I couldn't really get a picture of the bottom one but it is easy to find. Once they are loose you move the alternator forward to put some slack in the belt so you can remove it:

There is a wiring harness attached to the timing belt cover. Just bend the wire hangers to free the wire:

Next step is to remove the water pump pulley. Of course I forgot to loosen the bolts before the alternator belt had been removed (while everything was locked in tight) so I had to keep the pulley in place by wrapping the belt around it while I broke the bolts free:

The water pump pulley is removed (10 MM bolts):

Next you remove the crank pulley. Remember how I forgot to break the water pump bolts free? Well, I did the same thing with the crank pulley. It was a pain but I finally got it done by putting the car in 1st gear and setting the parking break (8MM bolts). Note that the crank bolt is 17MM:

The timing belt cover is held on with eight 10MM bolts and a 10MM nut in the center:

While I was creeping around under the car I found something bad - my Metro has some rust on the a-arm mount. I do not know why I never noticed this before but there will definitely be a web page devoted to fixing this in the near future:

OK, the timing belt is now exposed. I cleaned it up a bit and will let it drip dry overnight. In the morning the plan is to put the cranks pulley and water pump pulley back on so the car can be driven. Hopefully I will see where it is dripping from. Note that I ty-wrapped the wiring harness into the stock locations. You don't want that getting ripped up while testing the car:

The next day I went outside, put the pulleys back on and started the car up. Almost immediately it started pouring oil out of the camshaft seal. The picture plainly shows what happened - the camseal backed itself out of the recess (moved forward towards the camshaft sprocket. The rubber seal should be flush with the head:

Before going any further I made sure I could align the crankshaft and camshaft. I made marks on the belt and metal with white fingernail polish (I always keep a bottle lying around for something like this). Here you can see how the sprocket's alignment mark fits with a notch cut in the metal above it:

You can also see the arrow aligning with the tab on the crank:

Note that when the cam sprocket is aligned on top there is a pin sticking in the bottom notch of the sprocket:

After marking everything I pulled the belt off by loosening the 12MM bolt on the timing belt tensioner pulley and the 10MM spring stud (this is what the nut in the center of the timing belt cover attaches to). When you put the timing belt back on you just align all your marks, let the spring pull the tensioner pulley tight and then tighten the pulley bolt and tension spring bolt/stud:

The seal fell out into my hand. I have no idea why it backed out like that:

Even though I had a few spare cam seals I decided to run to the store and get a new one. I couldn't see trying to save $7 make me tear everything open again. However, I did opt to put the old timing belt back on. When it finally goes I'll swap in a new oil pump, water pump, belts, etc and I wasn't ready to do that right now:

Here is the recess where the seal goes. I made sure I wiped it out with a paper towel to remove any dirt that got in there and then I coated it and the new seal with fresh oil. I pressed it in with my fingers and then tried to use a large socket and a hammer to tap it in. I found that my socket wasn't deep enough so I used the side of a boxed end of a wrench and the hammer to tap it the rest of the way in (flush). Installation of everything was just the opposite of the tear down. I did use a torque wrench to put the cam sprocket bolt in at 44 ft/lbs but I ended up using it to turn the engine over a few times while putting the crank pulley back on so it is probably over tightened. One warning - I have broken the small crank pulley 8MM bolts on other cars so you should be carefull not to over tighten them. I did not use locktite on anything since I know I will be back in here at some future time (probably not a good excuse but it is all I have):

UPDATE - After doing all that work the engine continued to leak oil. I took everything apart three more times and could not figure out where it was leaking from or why it was leaking in such a strange way. It would leak horribly for a day and then stop for two or three days. Finally, I took some advice from my father (it took him almost a full 10 seconds to figure out what the problem was) and checked the PCV system. When I pulled the three way hose off the air cleaner this is what I found:

The thick peanut butter like oil residue was plugging (or at least restricting) the PCV system. I cleaned out the passage on the lower air filter housing and the PCV valve. In theory this was putting pressure on the engine and the seals leaked to relieve the pressure. I should know in a day or two if this fixed my problem: