In order to properly tune the A/F ratio on Red Beast, I wanted to install a Wide Band O2 Sensor. I did a little research and found that the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 WBO2 was one of the cheapest and fastest around. I found one on Ebay for $175 (shipped) from YOURPERFORMANCESOURCE

Video on the Innovate LC-1 controller

I also found that there were a few people buying a WB gauge for $9 (vs the $100-$200 they usually cost). I've purchased one but do not have it installed yet. I will post pictures and documentation as soon as I do.

From Innovate Motorsports Forum:
Set 0.8V = 8AFR, 2V = 20AFR. Then use the jumper settings on the $9 panel meter to move the decimal point one position to the right. If you want the results in lambda, program 0.5V = 0.5 Lambda, 1.5V = 1.5 Lambda and leave the decimal point alone.

Ok, on to the installation. I got a little confused when I installed mine but I'll lay out my "Dummy's Guide to installing an LC-1 on a 90-93 Link ECU" here:


Remove your Link ECU and cut the jumper on the back. It is a connection between 2P and 2R on the ecu. I used a razor blade to cut through the copper trace.

From under the car, ty-wrap the LC-1 control box to your speedometer cable. DO NOT connect the O2 sensor to the control box yet. Remove the plug in the footwell and drill a large hole in it for the cables to go through. I used some silicon to plug up the hole after the installation was complete.

Mount the LED and switch that are supplied with the LC-1. Connect the BLACK wire on the LED to the BLACK wire on the switch. Connect the RED wire on the LED to the RED wire on the switch.

Connect the RED +12V wire from the LC-1 control box to pin 1B on the ECU.
Connect the BLUE signal ground wire from the LC-1 control box to the engine block (see picture below).
Connect the BROWN 0-5V analog output wire from the LC-1 control box to pin 2P on the ECU.
Connect the YELLOW 0-1V analog output wire from the LC-1 control box to pin 2N on the ECU and on your Narrow Band A/F gauge.
Connect the WHITE and GREEN ground wires from the LC-1 control box and the BLACK wires from the LED and switch to the engine block (see below).
Connect the BLACK calibration wire from the LC-1 control box to the RED wires from the LED and switch.

***Note on the grounds*** - This seems to be the part where most people have problems. Klaus from Innovate Motorsports told me "The Blue one should be to the same ground (for example engine block) as the others, just not on the same lug to minimize ground noise from the heater current." I had originally hooked the blue wire to 2C/2D @ the ecu but that was causing my MAP sensor to read 80 instead of 98 with the engine off. I rewired the grounds to attach to the block. The Blue wire attaches to one of these bolts and the White/Green/Black (from the LED) attaches to the other bolt:

Again, with the sensor disconnected, turn the key to ACC so that your ECU has +12V. Let it power up for 20 seconds and then turn it off. Now, connect your sensor (don't put it in the O2 bung, just leave it hanging in the free air). Turn the key on and watch the LED blink slowly for 15 seconds or so and then start blinking faster. After about 1 minute the light will be solid and you can kill the power and install the sensor in the O2 bung.

Software Setup:

Using your Link handheld go to the INJ/O2 screen and turn on WBO2 by holding both ADJUST keys and pressing the EDIT up key.
Using your Link handheld or laptop set the following values (these come from wbo2_values.xls):
Z26 = 65 (14.8:1)
Z27 = 66 (14.7:1)
Z28 = 72 (14.0:1)
Z29 = 84 (12.5:1)
Z30 = 93 (11.5:1)
Z26 = 102 (10.5:1)

These target values are used for auto tuning and will show up on your Link datalog graphs under "A/F TGT".
If you need to change these values you can use this cross reference conversion table spreadsheet.

Go into DLL and click CUSTOMIZE, OPTIONS, FM LINK ECU, make the path for AUX INPUT CONVERSION FILE point to this conversion table. This tells DLL how to convert the voltage from the LC-1 into an A/F ratio.

So, how did it do? Well, I've only taken one run datalog with it so far.
Looking at my first run you can see the green line (A/F TGT) and how it compares to my brown line LC-1 output (AUX CF).

It looks slightly rich in a few places. My game plan is to do some auto tuning over the next week and then start increasing my timing. I think that might be the way to get a little more power.

Special thanks to:
Arildhof at
Jeremy Ferber at Flyin' Miata