Since I built my first two MAME machines in 1999 I've always wanted a dedicated driving machine. 17 years later I found a Crusin World on Ebay. It was just a bare cabinet with no monitor but it did have a wheel, pedals and shifter. The seller wanted $150 but I talked him down to $50. I jumped in the truck and when I got to Myrtle Beach 2 hours later I found that he sold my cabinet to another buyer. UGH! I was not very happy but I spied a Daytona USA sitting in the corner. I told the seller that he had wasted my time and he needed to give me to Daytona cabinet instead. Since it had a 25" monitor in it (probably worth $200-$300 if working) and the other machine did not it would be an incredible deal if he agreed. Yep, he did and even threw in a bare Ms Pacman control panel as well:

Time for first inspection:

I had not noticed the sticker on the marquee when I first picked it up but someone had paid $13 for the cabinet at auction. Hmmm, maybe that monitor doesn't work after all:

Yep, this thing was disgustingly dirty. Worth every bit of the $13 they originally paid:

When I finally got around to cleaning out the machine I found it to be completely disgusting. It was full of trash, dirt, mud, rat droppings, and a tangled mess of old wiring harness. There was also a switching power supply in there but I wasn't sure if it worked. It wasn't mounted to the cabinet so it had been rolling around in there for some time:

WOW! I see from the coin counter that there have been 138,738 quarters put in the game. That's about $35,000. I'm was definitely in the wrong business in the 90's:

I stripped out the old wiring harness and started cleaning out the bottom of the cabinet. Since I was going to put a full size tower computer in there I needed to find a better location for the isolation transformer than the middle of the cabinet floor:

The rear of the cabinet on the bottom where the power plug and noise filter was located seemed like a good mounting spot for the isolation transformer and main fuse:

Ah, looks much better and is out of the way:

There were screws for mounting the caster plates protruding through the floor and had to be removed due to safety reasons:

Once everything was cleaned up it was time to find out exactly how good the deal was. $50 for an empty cabinet with steering wheel, pedals, and shifter was not bad. $50 for a cabinet with a working isolation transformer and monitor is the type of jackpot that everyone wants to find. I crossed my fingers and turned on the power. To my surprise the monitor powered up just fine. There was quite a bit of burn in on the monitor but I don't think it will really hurt the gameplay:

Since the monitor powered up I wonder if it would actually display correctly or if it needed major work. I grabbed an old MAME machine, constructed a VGA to RGB adapter/cable and hooked everything up. Hmmm, I did get a picture but it was pretty rough. It looked like a double or triple image on the screen and it was scrolling vertically and couldn't really be stopped:

I shut everything down, discharged the monitor, and yanked out the chassis. If you look at the upper middle of the screen you can see a bundle of wires with a red tag on them. This was plugged into a set of pins marked HIGH (right next to a similar set of pins that said LOW). I had never seen this before so I did some research. After an hour I determined that it was next to impossible to find a wiring diagram for this monitor BUT I did see a lot of people saying that this was a Medium Res monitor. Wonder if HIGH was to run the monitor at Medium Resolution and LOW was to run it at Standard Resolution. I swapped the harness over and the monitor stopped displaying the distorted image - kind of. It was rolling vertically and could not be stopped with Vertical Hold pot:

Hmmm, could this monitor run composite sync? I twisted the vertical and horizontal sync wires together and I was finally able to get the picture to stop rolling. At this point the screen did not look horrible but it seemed as if the bottom 1/3 was on top. I had no experience with this but soon found out this is a terrible problem to have. This monitor was in the beginning stages of vertical collapse. This was going to take quite a bit of work to fix:

The first thing I did to the monitor was to install a cap kit. Even though I did not think the monitor needed one, it would give me an excuse to pull the chassis out one more time and do some inspection on it. The cap kit for a Nanao MS8-26SU contains 30 capacitors. I'm not the fastest in the world and it took me about 4 hours to put all of these in:

The picture still was no better after the cap kit installation. I next turned my attention to the resistors. I purchased a capacitance meter that read all sorts of things that my normal meter did not. Here I am checking C435 with the new meter (MK328 LCD Transistor Tester Diode Inductance Capacitance ESR Meter):

Cabinet - $50
Arcade VGA 3000 PCIe card - $50
4 x 2" casters - $25
MS8-26SU cap kit - $10
MK328 ESR Meter - $28
Ultimarc A-Pac pot encoder - $53 Note - You are probably seeing missing links to some pictures above. I still use Notepad to create the html code and have a template with plenty of extra references to pictures to save on typing. As I continue the page I will add pictures and descriptions and these missing links will disappear.